Date: Sun, 07 Nov 1999 19:22:22 +1100 From: "C.O.M.E. Racing" Subject: Re: Vmax whats .1 mm? Paul, the workshop manual actually says .3mm with a plus or minus tolerance of .1mm. In imperial measurements this is .012" plus or minus .004". When my bike had an annoying "stalling for no obvious reason" problem, at about 5000miles on the clock from brand new, I went through a few checks some list members advised, but all appeared okay. One member (sorry, don't remember who) suggested I drain the carb bowls to ensure no junk was floating around and blocking jets or causing flooding by holding needle and seats open. I decided to remove carbs, drain them properly and at the same time try the V-boost adjustment procedure shown in the manual. With carbs off it is very straightforward although I could'nt get it right quickly. It took about 10-15 cycles with ignition on and me altering the allen screw adjustment till I got it where I was happy. Incidentally, make sure you unplug the fuel pump relay located behind the left side fake scoop. It is the first one on the left or front most on the bike. You can also remove the fuel pump fuse located under the drivers seat while doing you ignition on cycles. If you don't kill the fuel supply you'll be drenched in the stuff every time you cycle ignition on to test the V-boost clearance, remember the carbs are off and the fuel supply hose from the pump is open. I don't know which model you have but on my '99 the illustrations showing the V-boost are not quite the same in the manual. I believe the manual I have goes up to '95 even though I bought it new last year. Basically, I adjusted only the cable length using the allen screw as the lock nut while pulling a small amount of tension against the spring in the cable block. I would tighten it, turn the ignition off, turn ignition back on so the electrics would go thru the cycle. I then used a .016" feeler gauge into the gap between the boost linkage and the threaded stop. Remember the measurement allows a plus or minus .004" tolerance. I figured a little more gap won't hurt. I ended up with the .016" feeler being a firm drag thru fit in the gap. So effectively it was about .014"-.015". The results were virtually the same as the original position I had found the measurement to be. From the factory my adjustment was about .008"-.010". In practise, the V-boost opened noticeably at about 6000-6200 rpm, with my new adjustment it was virtually the same, maybe 200rpm sooner, but in reality it's hard to differentiate. All I cared about was that it worked pretty close to where it should. >From what I can tell you are simply running the cycle and the tightening the allen screw. You must first hold the allen key, pull some tension on the cable against the spring in the cable box and tighten the allen bolt while maintaining that tension with the allen key. As I said it took me quite a few shots till I got it right, in fact I mostly had too big a gap, till I fiddled it close enough. That begs the question, what happens if you have a bigger gap? say .025" or so, anyone have any comments? Sam Blumenstein #795 PaulnVenus wrote: > My v-boost needs adjusted, there is no gap to be found where the pully scews are with the igniton on(closed possition). I tried adjusting the cable by loosening the bolt on the cable box, turn the key on, tighten the cable bolt. but no luck. > I guess i have to pull the carb rack and adjust the stops? > Im lost on what the gap should be, manual says .1mm (point one millimeter). > Whats that in inches about? I checked a converter online and got 0.0039370. of a inch. > This must be a hairs width, no? > Has anyone got a simple way of adjusting this? Tip? tricks? > The boost wouldnt kick in tll 6500rpm, now that i adjusted it, it kicks in a 8700 rpm. > Thanks in advance for the needed help here. > § PaulnVenus § > V.M.O.A. # 807 > SteelCityMax > only@worldnet.att.net > http://home.att.net/~only/max/max.htm