> Next project - Progressive Springs and Emulators, and Progressive > shocks, and fork brace. This will be a do-it-your-selfer, too. I'm > looking at the 418's. Good, bad, indifferent? I'm thinking about > lowering the bike - going with the 11...hmmm...or is it 11.5....whatever > shocks. I fitted the shortest progressive shocks (11.5 I think too) to my wife's (Nikki) '97 Vmax. Can't remember the model number of the shocks, they are chrome and adjustable for preload only, nothing fancy. The shocks seem OK, maybe a little less "compliant", but the confidence increase is worth it! (says Nikki, who can now get *both* her feet down, but not quite flat...) > What kind of special tools will I need? Is this a one-person job? Are > there "instructions" that come with the new parts? Before you start, measure the height of the bike front and rear, sat on it's wheels (one person holds, one person measures). Measure vertical to reference points if you can. Write it all down :) Metric socket set. Two person job (for tricky "balancing bits", one person the rest of the time). Instructions, but very simple. Job is quite straight forward really, you should be okay on your own (Nikki "persuaded" me to work on her bike... I think it involved baking a chocolate cake :) Bike on centre stand. Brick (or anything handy the correct size) under back wheel (to stop it hitting the deck when the shocks are removed). Remove shock mounting nuts (metric socket set, 17mm?). Remove washers. Put to one side. All just hangs there in place. Slide shock "eyes" off locating "spigots" on frame and swing-arm (bit of "wiggling" may be required, squirt with WD-40 lube to help them slip off easily). Line up new shock to mounting points, and stuff something else under the rear wheel to lift the swing-arm up (so the "spigots/eyes" all line up... wheel and swing-arm suprisingly heavy!). Grease the "spigots" (so it all slips on easily). Pop on the new shocks. Replace washers. Replace the nuts, tighten to correct torque (help, manual at home...) Re-measure the rear height to your refernece points. Take new ride height from original. This is the amount lowered (rocket science, eh?) I also slid the yokes down the forks to lower the front end an equivalent ammount (to preserve handling characteristics). This is a bit more involved, but I recommend it (or your steering will be slowed down if you just lower the rear). Again, bike on centre stand. Loosen wheel, brake caliper nuts and front mud guard nuts/bolts. "Crack-off" (don't loosen!) the lower yoke allen bolts and the upper yoke bolts that hold the forks *before* you jack the front wheel off the ground :) You *will* need help to get the front end up (push on rear seat) and block up the bike (I use a bit of wood and a bottle jack under the engine, make sure it will take the weight ie. not exhaust, spin on oil filter or delicate bits! Remove calipers from forks, leave hoses attached, place them on something tall (oil can?) or rest them on the bike (engine? tie out of the way?) to reduce stressing the brake lines. Remove wheel (see handbook). Remove front mud guard. Forks now ready to be moved. Move them one at a time. Loosen bottom yoke first. *Hold* this fork, *then* loosen the top bolt :) Slide fork up (about one to two inches? can't remember measurement off-hand... could measure Nikki's bike for you) to make front ride height the same differnce as rear (may need to do this whole procedure a couple of times!). Now "simply" do the other fork... When I first did this, I left the forks attached to each other (with mud guard) and removed the springs from the forks. Then I (um..we) fully compressed the forks (in their new position) to make sure that the mud guard didn't hit the radiator grill... if you're paranoid, you may wan't to do this too (better than ruining your paint and denting your radiator!). There was plenty of clearance by the way. The whole bike is about two inches lower, and looks *mean*. Strangely, ground clearance doesn't seem to be affected too much (Nikki hasn't got her pegs down... yet :) Good luck (check twice, fit once ;) Mike ----------------------- Subject: Re: Vmax Ohlins shocks. I'll second the motion on the 418's. Dramatic difference over stock, they're adjustable, well made, and "relatively inexpensive" vs. Ohlins. Donna's pricing sounds quite close to what I paid for my 11.5" set. Ken - -----Original Message----- From: Donna W To: vmax@MyList.net Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 5:40 PM Subject: Re: Vmax Ohlins shocks. >Mark - This won't exactly answer your question and I'm sure you'll get a >couple dozen different responses as to which are the best shocks. >Progressive Suspension 418's are sure to come up at sometime. So, as an >FYI I found what I think is a pretty decent price for them: 418's - >$325pair for the 11.5 or 12.5 plus shipping. (semi-related: Progressive >Fork Springs - $57 plus shipping). > >If you want more info let me know and I'll pass it on. Conversely, if >anyone knows of a better price, please let me know. > >Donna W >VMOA #479 ---------------------- From: blooz@pacbell.net Subject: Re: Vmax Hello Hi Dom ! Welcome aboard ! Glad to see you've taken my recommendation and joined the VMOA. These folks are the best of the best in my book ! I installed Progressive Suspension fork springs in my '89 a couple of years ago and never experienced bottoming even under heavy braking. I also mounted some Koni type 7610 shocks at the same time, this really made my V-Max alot more fun to ride. If I was still riding, I'd definitely install the Race Tech Emulators just from the reviews I've seen on this list. You'll get lots of good recommendations from the VMOA. Just ask and make sure you've got plenty of space available in your e-mail box. Take Care, Bud Anderson VMOA 295 ICOA 4604 -------------------- Subject: Re: Vmax 418 shocks. On 30 Jun 98 at 19:47, Leslie and Roy Richards wrote: > I have the 418's on my bike. > They work good but the springs they came with were way too stiff for my > liking at 160 lbs dripping wet. Even on the softest preload setting they > were hard riding and poor to respond on bumps. The originals were > 115-155's and the ones I replaced them with were 90-130's. Much better > suited to my weight. After being beat to death all day Sunday, I think the ones (115/150?) I have are too stiff even for my 250 lb butt. I'm getting ready to order the next softer, I think they're 105/140 IIRC. A pair of springs is pretty cheap (like $45 I think) and I have the tool that makes changing 'em a snap. - -Mike Sayers-90 Yamaha Vmax-Smithfield NC-VMOA Thug #234 ----------------------- Mike Sayers wrote: > > After being beat to death all day Sunday, I think the ones (115/150?) > I have are too stiff even for my 250 lb butt. I'm getting ready to > order the next softer, I think they're 105/140 IIRC. A pair of springs > is pretty cheap (like $45 I think) and I have the tool that makes > changing 'em a snap. I have no idea who at progressive picked out that absurd spring rate they send with them stock. Even the ones 2 steps lighter have zero static sag in them. Roy ---------------------- The Progressive 418s are $304.95/pr. 41327=11.5" 41331=12.5" Stockers are about 12.7 inches. 41330=12.5" with softer spring (I don't know how much softer) 11.5 will give you a lowered look, 12.5 would be better for twisty roads. As Roy has mentioned, the included springs are very stiff. Replacement springs are $54.95 for chrome or $49.95 for black. MAW's online catalog has no reference to spring rates, so you'd have to call them. Lotsa luck. - -Mike Sayers-90 Yamaha Vmax-Smithfield NC-VMOA Thug #234 ----------------------- > I too am 250 lbs and I am going to change my front springs to > progressive ones and my rear to 418's. Does anyone have any suggestions > for what spring rates to go with. I know that there are 5 for the front > springs, and I think there are 3 for the rear. Thanks very much. Brian > Doody VMOA#375. AFAIK there is only 1 option for the front. Just don't overdo the damping and they're fine. I just went and checked my rear springs, they are 105/150 and still a little stiff. Whatever the next softer ones are (95/140?) are what I would choose. - -Mike Sayers-90 Yamaha Vmax-Smithfield NC-VMOA Thug #234 - -Vmax list admin-AMA #694085-DoD #2026 vmax@tridod.org ------------------------- Subject: Re: Vmax Progressive Shocks Dave, I just read some more posts from Mike Sayers and Paul Beaumont, according to what they say, the 105/150 rate is definitely stiffer than stock and may be what you need. And also, I read that the stock length is 12.7". The progressives I have are definitly 13" since I measured them to be that and it says it on the box also. Just thought you might want to know. Alex S. VMOA# 430 85 Vmax ------------------ DrtRdr97@aol.com wrote: And also, I read that the stock length is 12.7". The > progressives I have are definitly 13" since I measured them to be that and it > says it on the box also. Just thought you might want to know. > Alex S Are these the 1200 series progressives? When I bought the 1800 series they were only available in 11.5 or 12.5 Roy ----------------------------- Suspension If you don't it know already, our V-Max's suffer from lousy shocks. I installed a set of adjustable Koni model 7610 shocks on mine along with some Progessive Suspension fork springs a couple of years ago and have been very pleased with the ride improvement ever since. If I was still riding I'd also install the Race Tech Gold valve emulators in the forks just from the recommendations here on the list.