I'm sure many of you have played with the jetting on your bike and know = what a pain it is to have to break apart the carbs to change the = jets.The stock Yamaha jets are larger than the plug holes on the bottom = of the float bowls. When changing out the jets the first time you can = get replacement jets made by either Mikuni or Dyno Jet with an OD smaller than the hole in = the bowl. The next time you decide to change or rejet the carbs just remove the = carb assembly and remove the threaded plug on the bottom of the bowl. = Take the appropriate screwdriver and just loosen the main jet. Insert a = round toothpick in the center of the jet with just enough pressure to = enable you to unscrew and remove the jet. The same with installing the = new jet. Works Great And Saves Hours ! Bob --------------- Subject: Vmax Factory Stage 1 problems I just installed needles from Factory Stage 1 kit I bought from PCW. Put the clip on 2 down ( PCW recom. ) and made sure nylon washer was seated properly in slide. Bike ran terrible. Lowered clip to #3 position and it continued to run terrible. Took it for a ride went through almost a tank of gas in 30mi. The max conked out just as I pulled into my drive way. Plugs were so fouled it would not start again. In comparing the needles I found them to be almost radically different in diamater. Could they have sent me the wrong needles even though the numbers on the label are for a V-Max. Before the Stage 1 I was running stock needles with 1 Radio Shack washer and K&N filter. A roll on in first gear would bring front end up. While I expected the needles to be different the kind of difference these have explains the exesive fuel consumption and fouled plugs. Any ideas. My max is an 1986 with K&N filter and a Hindle 4-1. I am at sea level in Florida. Patrick VMOA#570 Patrick, Drop the needle to its leanest position, take the Y piece off of the top of the airbox, set the needles to about 2.5 turns. Now your good to go do wheelies again. Roy ---------------------------- Subject: Re: Vmax Changing jets Leslie and Roy Richards wrote: > > Why should Cory have to split the carbs? > You can change the mains using a round wooden toothpick and accessing > them thru the drain holes. Just break the jet loose, jam the toothpick > into it, unscrew it and pull it out. Goes back in the same way. Smart! Thanks a lot, that will make things easy! That's one of those head slapper ideas. "Smack! Why didn't I think of that!?" Chris V ------------------- Check out the 120RWHP club, some of the list guys can give you the address (url). There is a lot of info there. The exhaust and jet kit really work great together, and make a huge improvement in performance all the way through the rpm range. Here are the numbers that look like they should be on the jets: Main jet 152.5 Main air jet 2.0 Jet needle 5EZ43 Needle jet Y-O Pilot jet #37.5 Fuel level 16 + - 1.0mm = (0.63+ - 0.04in) Pilot screw about 2.5 turns out valve seat size 1.5 engine idle speed 1,000 + - 50 r/min I would recommend a pipe and jet kit. ---------------- From: DALE WALKER Send reply to: dlwalker@holeshot.com Organization: Holeshot Performance Products To: Jean Dupuis Subject: Re: Jetting Jean, Because that left rear cylinder always seems to run richer, why? Who knows. I run 155s on all 4 cylinders, .025 to .050, shim the needles and back the fuel screws out 2 1/2 to 3 turns. This with a K&N filter in the stock air box. Dale Jean Dupuis wrote: > > Hi Dale, just a short question. From the Vmax list, Cory Frost just > posted the jetting changes he made on his Max. He said that he > installed 155 mains on number 1 carb, followed by 157.5 on the > rest. He advised me that this was your recommendation. If so, > can you explain why the smaller main on number 1? > TIA > Jean(John)Dupuis