> this? You will have to remove carbs to change the jets and thus re sync. Paul, Just a tip. It is not necessary to seperate the carbs in order to change the mains. If you use a round wooden toothpick you can access the mains thru the drain plug holes and not have to mess with the synchronization. The toothpick sticks hard into the center of the jet without damaging it and allows you to pull the main in & out thru the hole. Roy ------------- From: Dale Walker Subject: Vmax V-Max Hi Rusty, Looks like you, Gene and Mike had a good time on the Dyno the other day. I've found that you can squeeze another 2 or 3 horsepower by removing the top air box lid but you also have to go a click up on the main jets to get it. My stage 1 kit includes shims for the stock needles (which I have found to work just as good or better than any of the after market needles), main jets, K&N air filter, and tuning instructions to dial it in and fine tune the fuel screws and etc. This set up allows me to offer the complete kit for $94.95. Your bike must be a real torquer and a blast to ride. Yours Truly, Dale Walker - -- Holeshot Performance http://www.holeshot.com/ (408) 761-2808 ------------------- Hindle pipe: I'm running K&N filter in stock airbox, > 155 mains, stock needles shimmed 1 mm, and idle mixture about 3 1/4 > turns out. Does this sound like a good starting point for my system? Yes ---------------- I shimmed the stock needles 1 MM, mix screws 3 turns out, and 155 mains. Very easy to do all of these things. I got them from PCW in NY (phone number:518-346-7203, Fax:518-346-2817). I got the ceramic coated and 18" aluminum super sport can for $625.95. The nickel/chrome (not sure on the exact coating but they said nickel) with aluminum can is $579.95. Add $110 if you want carbon fiber cans instead. These prices are in the catalog they sent me and are probably subject to change. Give them a call and they will get you a catalog quick (mine was here in 3 days). Any more questions feel free to ask. Bob Fening Nashville, TN '94 Max P.S. They said VMOA members get free shipping. ------------ Get a 4-1 Hindle or Kerker and a Factory config 10 jet kit if you are looking for a power increase. The Trapps wont get you any noticeable power increase. Roy ------------ From: Justin Lassy Subject: Re: Vmax Fw: Righty-tighty, lefty-loosie > So, to enrichen.....left or right? Richer: Counterclockwise Leaner: Clockwise ------------- Bob! You have got some real tough HP requirements. You would be lucky to get get 10-15 HP out of a Hindle & a Jet kit. You wont get anywhere near 4-6 from doing shimming and low speed mixture screw adjustment but you wont get a nightmare and frustration either. What you will get is a slightly smoother running motor in the low & mid RPM ranges and an elimination of backfiring thru the carbs if you have it now. And it only takes about 1/2 hour and is not hard to do. Actually it is a rather minor adjustment to the A/F mixture. Roy ------------------- > What do you have to do to get the carburetors off on a Vmax? Pry them > off with a crow bar? Mine seem to be stuck pretty good. > Thanks, > Mark R. First loosen the 4 philips head screws that hold the air box, remove that, be careful to disconnect the breather hose from the box, pulling out the white overflow resevior first makes this easier. Loosen the 8 (2 each) screws below the carbs on the manifold boots, grasp two of the slide covers diagonally and wiggle upward, switch back and forth from carb to carb. Make sure the large coolant hose isn't in the way. Hope this helps ----------------------- From: Coyote111@aol.com Subject: Vmax Idle screw adjustment For me, the easiest way to set the idle mixture screws, is to run the motor until warm and idle stable. Run each screw in, one at a time, until the engine stumbles, back the screw out until just rich of peak idle (idle drops again). Then run them back in to peak idle. Repeat for each carb. If your screws are out more than 3 turns, I feel the jet needs to be swapped to the next larger. Your final position should be around 2.5 turns out. JimY437 ---------------------- Subject: Re: VMAX STOCK CARBS Message-ID: <5837-3702D0CE-89@mailtod-132.iap.bryant.webtv.net> --WebTV-Mail-145831271-49 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Paul, the idle mixture screws also help control mileage up to 5,000. A quarter turn can mean as much as 5 miles to a gallon more. Don "Old Man" Smith ------------------------- Tim Wouters wrote: > Hi, I' ve bought a '94 california model, and have some problems with > the tuning of my carberators. I'm living in Belgium and we have no > co-regulations for motorcycles, but our fuel-prices are sky high. Is > it possible to take the co-seal (fixed co-screw) out and put in > something that would make it able to adjust the co (and to lower my > fuel-consumption). Thanks, Tim Wouters Tim, on the side of the carbs you will see a brass plug. Some have a small hole in them. Drill the plug out and you can get access to idle mixture screws. If you have a California model though I can almost bet that you will want to richen those screws rather than lean them any further. Worth a try though since you don't use the oxygenated fuels that we have. This will only effect low speed though. Later California models also used a larger idle air bleed jet to run even leaner. These are accessed through the top of the carbs after you remove the air filter. -- ............................................. Paul Sayegh ----------------- From: Coyote111@aol.com Subject: Re: Vmax No BackFires No Loss of POWER..... Geez, a 10 part question. Haven't had one of those in a while. Gon'a make me work for this one huh. The sooner you pull the caps on the fuel screws the better, as they do weld them selves in place. I put the tiniest dab of anti seize on mine as I never wanted to fight with them again. This anti seize is very powerful stuff. Even if it wipes off the screw, a little will stay on the threads until you spray down the passage. I also make it the first thing I do to any car I get. Put a dab on each lug nut. Yes, you need a tester to adjust the idle mixture. Fortunately, you are already equipped with one ... your ears and eyes. (Big departure here from my love of the dyno) With the motor warm, start with any cylinder. Run the screw in until the idle stumbles, back it out to peak idle, then take it in just a smidg. Presto. Done deal. Repeat with the other 7 carbs. The carbs sometimes get a little funny. If the idle mixture is functioning perfectly you can hear the rpm's drop very quickly (just give the screw a big old, smooth, turn or 2). Sometimes there is a little gunk in side, and one screw won't be effective. It is a good indication you need to pull the carb apart, and soak or spray it down internally with brake cleaner. The motor seems to like to have the screws around 2.5 turns. If you are down to 1.5 or over 3.5 change the jet to the next size in the direction you need to go. When you drilled the wholes, you changed the ratio of fuel/air in the cylinder. Each motor is different. Actual measured compression is closer to 9.5 rather than 10.5(?) stated. Some a little more, some a little less. These differences in compression, timing, etc., make each motor unique. Your motor liked the better flow of exhaust. If we were racing these things, this would be common knowledge among all competitors. Simple stuff that will get you ahead of the guy next to you on the line. Unfortunately, we aren't doing any professional or even amateur racing so this knowledge is a little harder to come by. There are some very good tuners on the list. They just don't admit it very often. Roy Richard, Mike Jones, Jim & John Furbur, Mario, Clint. These guys know how to tune a motor, and it is those years of experience that would have them at the front of the pack. It isn't luck that they have fast motorcycles. So, go have some fun. Grab a small screwdriver, and make some changes to the idle mixture. You will get the hang of it very quickly I'm sure. Same with the needles (midrange jetting). Experiment. Add shims, go for a ride, take shims out, go for a ride. You should be able to feel the difference in throttle response. (Make big changes so you can see where it, "goes wrong." Then, zero in on where it really needs to be.) Set it where you like it. I do believe, at trip to the dyno the only way to get the mains right on. This will typically make several RWHP improvement. Lets see, as I remember it, you set the balance, then the idle, then the idle mixture, then readjust the overall idle. I think that's how it goes anyway, I always forget. Anyway. Did I cover it all? Anyway, hope this helps. JimY ----------------------------- From: Patrick Ahearn To: V-Max@sayegh.org Subject: Re: Carb Problem Heads-up Message-ID: <3814DE04.8BA10A8E@earthlink.net> Scott; Every two to three months I take out the slides and clean them up with 1500 grit wet and dry sandpaper. I just go over them lightly using ATF. I also do the slide barrels. You would be amazed how much power a sticky slide can eat up. When I'm done I have a lot friskier max. Scott Hallmark wrote: > FYI, I thought I would pass on this tidbit of knowledge in case someone > else encounters the same problem I did. > > The symptoms on my 92 were that I had a major hesitation when I accelerated > slowly through 5-6.5K afterwards the bike would act like it was starved by > surging. If I snapped through 5 -6.5K I didn't notice the hesitation as > much but the surging was still evident. To make matters worse this problem > was intermittent. > > Finally I took the top off and started looking down the carb throats and > poking around. What I found was that the carb for hole #3, was not opening > all of the way. Meaning that the needle would not fully disengage from the > main jet @ WFO. > > How I found this was, I checked the slider action by pushing the slider > away from the main jet, towards the diaphragm. I had checked this before > but never to see if the slider would go to the stops, just movement. The #3 > slider would stop with about 5/16" still sticking out in the carb throat. > > I took the offending carb apart and did a visual inspection. Found nothing > obviously wrong so I will assume that the spring was the hang-up. None the > less I plan on polishing up the sliders as they show some obvious wear. > > Scott Hallmark > scottvmax@earthlink.net > http://home.earthlink.net/~scottvmax/