One thing that all of us Maxers seem to be looking for is "Just a little
bit more HP". From the stocker trying to push it a little to the 165 HP
1500cc owner we all want it to go just a little faster. Heres a few
ideas for those of you that are stock or running just a pipe to get you
a little performance boost you can feel without spending a lot of cash.
This is for U.S. spec Maxes as Euro and Canadian models should already
have adjustable needles.

If you are really on a budget you can tweak your carbs just a little bit
without even removing them and spend less than 50 bucks. I got 4 Hp and
a smoother running bike with a better power curve with the following.
First go down to your local bike shop and order a K&N replacement filter
for around $40. Stop at radio shack and get a little pack of washers
that they sell for around $1. If you dont have a 3/16" drill bit and
some masking tape pick that up while you are out.

Remove your fake gas tank cover and both the sidescoops. Remove the air
filter lid and drop in the K&N filter. Since you are retaining the stock
needles DO NOT remove the little Y shaped piece on top of the airbox. By
doing so you will end up with about 1 more HP on top but you will have a
big hole in the middle of the powerband that you dont want.

Now go to the four little square carb covers that stick out the sides
just below the fake scoops. Unless you have a special torx socket you
can plan on breaking loose and replacing the one funny looking screw
with a pair of vice grips or other creative method. This is an anti
tamper screw to keep you from messing with your carbs per uncle sam. The
other 3 screws should be easy for you. Do the covers one at a time as we
do not want to mix up the slides between the carbs. When you pull one
off you will find the following. The cover, a spring, and a slide
assembly with a diaphram attached to it. Be very careful with the
diaphram and notice the little O ring between the outer cover and the
carb body. Be sure you put it back on reassembly. Set everything aside
and concentrate on the slide assembly. Look down inside the center hole
and you will see a plastic screw that holds in the needle assembly.

Remove and set aside the plastic screw. pull out the little spring and
the needle assembly. Pull the little plastic piece with the little tit
on it off the front of the needle. find one of the appropriate sized
washers in the radio shack washer pack and insert it under the plastic
piece you just removed upon reassembly. It goes between what you just
removed and the clip on the needle. What you are doing here is raising
the needle up in relation to the position of the slide. This will have
the effect of richening up the midrange slightly. There are 3 things to
be careful of upon reassembly. First make sure the little plastic tit
seats into the little hole in the slide when you drop it back in. Second
when you put the plastic screw back into the slide you need to make sure
the needle does not set up tight in the slide. It needs to be loose and
able to move back and forth a little. You will probably have to take a
little bit off of the bottom of the plastic screw in order to keep this
from happening. Third notice that the diaphram only fits in one way. Do
all 4 this way.

Now we are going to adjust your idle mixture screws.
Take the 3/16" drill bit and wrap the tape around it about 1/4 " from
the end of the bit. This is to keep you from drilling too far when we
drill out the plugs. Just below the little dohicke (technical shit this
is) that sticks out from the covers you just put back on you will see a
plug that we need to drill out. Drill it and then use a little
screwdriver to pop the rest of it out. Now you have access to your Idle
mixture screws. They are probably set somewhere around 2 turns from
bottoming from the factory. Check and record where each one was when you
started. As you bring them out the mixture is going to get richer.

Try starting them around 3 1/2 turns out. I actually ended up with mine
about 4 turns out. This makes the Idle too rich (sounds kinda cool
though) but improves off Idle throttle response and driveability. You
can set it for a smoother Idle but your driveability and throttle
response will not be as good with the stock needles.

When you ride your bike you should notice better throttle response and a
harder pull up top. If it had a popping thru the carbs coming off idle
that will be gone. You should be able to do this whole job in about an
hour and a half with minimum tools and experience.

I have since gone to a different setup with a Factory products jet kit
but thats another story......Roy

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For starters, I would adjust my pilots by how the engine runs not at a fixed 
position for each cylinder. It takes practice but you should be able to 
adjust the screws by ear. Turn in the screw until the engine starts to run a 
little rougher, back it out until it smooths out then continue to back it 
out until it runs a little rougher again, then screw it in until the rpms 
return and the engine runs smooth. You have now found the idea setting. Do 
this for each of the cylinders. To test, pop the throttle open and the rpm 
should return to normal idle quickly, not dropping then recovering (rich) or 
hanging up l(ean).

cheers, Terry