Subject: SpeedBleeders Install Well, I spent a couple of nights working on the bike and finally got around to installing my new SpeedBleeders and flushing my brakes with new fluid. They're very cool! They work as advertised! Who ever heard of such a thing?! Anyhow, I'd like to say "Thank you!" for all the chatter regarding the SpeedBleeders and brakes in general. I doubt I would have gotten around to changing out the fluid anytime soon if the SpeedBleeders weren't involved. The correct part number for all four bleeders is #SB8125L. Observations about the job. Just because it takes about two minutes to change the bleeders, doesn't mean that the job will take two minutes. Take your time and do it right. I used (2) 12-ounce cans of Castrol GTLMA Brake fluid to flush the brake and clutch systems clean. GTLMA is supposed to be good for ABS systems and it exceeds DOT 4 specs but blends with conventional fluids. A 5/16" and an 8mm socket are equal to about 0.3125" & 0.315" respectively, and let's just say that they're close enough for the slight torque involved. Don't let the talk of English sizes dissuade you from doing the job on *this* bike. For the front brakes, I 1. Removed the windshield 2. Covered the front with towels and had a roll of paper towels standing by. 3. Pierced a large garbage bag and stretched it around the master cylinder (sort of a dental dam) to catch any errant fluid. (Worked great BTW and averted a major catastrophe when I did the clutch.) 4. Removed the front wheel 5. Left the pads in place, but disconnected the caliper from the knuckle-arm and rotated it forward on the disc so that the high spot would be where the bleeder is. Leave all the wires and hoses in place but disconnect the bracket that hold them to the front of the knuckle-arm. This will allow enough motion for rotating the caliper, but will keep it from flopping forward and off of the disc. 6. Replaced the bleeder. 7. Used an inch-lb torque wrench to tighten the bleeder. (You would not believe how *little* torque 32-40 in-lbs is!) 8. Cleaned the rotor with Rubbing Alcohol. For the clutch, I removed the left lower and again draped the bike with towels. I almost didn't stretch the garbage bag around the master cylinder as I didn't spill a drop when I did the front brake. That would have been a mistake. The master cylinder for the clutch has two holes in it and until the piston passes the second hole, it spurts fluid from it! Though I suspected a worn master cylinder, I'm told this is normal, and in any case, my clutch works fine. So I had a lot of fluid to sop up off of the garbage bag and I was pleased to see that not a drop had got past it. If you do this job, just remember to move the clutch-lever *really slowly*. The clutch was the easiest of the three. Change the bleeder, and pump out the old fluid and tighten the bleeder. The fluid in the clutch was much nastier than the fluid in either of the brakes. For the rear brakes, I: 1. Removed the right side cover and was pleased by how simple it is to remove the Krauser hard-luggage mounts. With some carefully constructed covers for the holes in the side covers, you could pull these in a couple of minutes for posing with sporto-wannabees. I like to leave my bags on however, so I'll not be doing that. Besides it's more fun to let 'em think about being passed by some geezer on a Goldwing. 2. I pulled the pads as I thought I might get fluid on them when I removed the old bleeders. I stuffed a piece of paper towel in the hole to keep fluid off of the rotor. This seemed like a good idea, and didn't add more than 5 minutes to the job, but you could probably just use the paper towel instead. If you do it my way, just be sure you don't push the pedal while the pads are out. (Did that the first time I tried to bleed brakes on a car. -- DUMB!) 3. Changed the bleeders(2). 4. Re-installed the pads. 5. Flushed the old fluid and tightened the bleeders. All in all, it was an easy job despite extreme measures to avoid fluid getting on the plastics. Next, I have to check out the swing-arms and suspension bits as I've finally fallen victim to the dreaded wobble(really minor, but Damnit! It's there!). It really was a joy doing business with their company. Use their web-form to request the parts(4 SB8125L's). The parts will show up in the mail. You send them a check for $28.00, and everyone's happy. Hope this helps anyone thinking about doing the job. _ o _ / = > Later, _ (_)==(_) Don ----------------- From: "Hawkins, Kevin L, SITS" Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 10:10:26 -0400 Subject: RE: Speed bleeders: WTF ? 8125L for the longer nipple which is what I got. (No comments please from the SA#?!) ---------------------- From: "Andy Perry" To: Subject: RE: Speedbleeder part numbers Message-ID: <000601bed3c0$44837500$021c010a@seenet01> All four bleeders are the sames size. I ordered mine over the internet, & they shipped me PN SB8125. The bleeders have a lot of thread showing, & the nipples don't appear to be the long ones like some people prefer, but they work like a champ. They also make changing break pads a cinch, since you can push the calipers with the bleeder open, & brake fluid exits the bleeder as the caliper goes in.