I had some trouble with a flashing ABS Light after a long ride over very bumpy roads. I checked everthing this evening and found that the sensor cable is the problem...when the frontwheel "falls" into a very deep hole, that sensor cable was bend very hard. Looks like the connector or soldering between the cable and the sensor is broken. I will figure that out in the winter ....:-)) JOERG -------------------------------------------------- I have also experienced the blinking ABS light at times, but >not as bad as yours sounded. I've never experienced the blinking ABS light except once at Road Atlanta while preparing the bike for a CLASS session. They require you to disable or cover the brake lights! I figured, what the hell! I'll just remove the bulbs from the tail. Well, this too causes the ABS warning light to blink. Does this mean that the system is disabled or is it simply warning of a problem somewhere in the system? I was running short on time and it was raining that day so I just reinstalled the bulbs and taped over the lense. It was nice having that golden ABS parachute while riding in the rain down gravity cavity at 130 MPH. The kicker was that the ABS never engaged once that day! Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC -------------------------------------------------- From: Bob Burton To: GTS-1000@MBnet.MB.CA Subject: Re: ABS Flashing Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline I have also experienced the flashing ABS light. It's only happened about three times in the year I've had my bike. According to the service manual a flashing ABS light just indicates that an error condition occurred in the system. This means that the ABS system is still working, only if the ABS light is on solid is the system nonfunctional (or at least that is what the service manual says). Once an error condition occurs the only way to reset it is to "reboot" or turn off the bike and then back on. As Joerg said the ABS light flashing can be caused by riding on very bumpy roads (gives that as one possible cause in the manual). The dealers are suppose to be able to diagnose any problems with the ABS system. The computer can be put in "dealer" mode and then each error that occurred can be looked at as it is stored in memory. There is a sequence of flashing and a rate of flashing that determine the actual error code. If you experience the flashing about once per second that just means an error has occurred but the system is functioning. The times mine has come on has been when riding on some rather bumpy roads. I hope this helps and if anyone doesn't have a Service Manual and wants more detailed info please send me a direct email and I'll bring my service manual in with me to work to help diagnose the real problem if the flashing won't go away. Bob -------------------------------------------------- Easy way to find out if the pump is broken: 1)Set ABS system into "test mode". This consists of shorting 2 wires in the terminal on the left as you look toward the back of the bike. The 2 wires are the ones on top of the terminal (don't recall colors). See the manual on page III-70 to notice which wire on the Yamaha tool called the test coupler shorts the two wires. 2)hold down the front and rear break levers. 3)Turn on bike with key while both levers are held on full. You will see the ABS light come on for 1.4 seconds, then the hydraulic unit will dump the front brake line pressure- you will feel it in the brake lever. Then you will feel it drop the rear brake line pressure in the pedal. It does both for about .5 seconds. If you felt both, you have no problem with your hydraulic unit. It is either the sensor or perhaps the line needs bleeding. I haven't had time to try either really well, but I did clean my wheel and sensor. next step is getting a proffessional bleeding done. -Greg \ | / \ | / \ | / \ | / \|/ \|/ Greg Christopher | | | | | | stork@best.com ------------------------ From: Shawn Pearsall Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:48:13 -0400 Subject: Re: The ABS Idiots discovery! ...or How to used the riders group tothe hilt! (Long but worth It) No these nuts are not the bleeder valves.....I obviously wrote this when I was tired and it was late. If you remove the right rear plastic molding you will discover the Brake reservoir and the tubes leading to the ABS control unit. Perpendicular to the ground is a rectangular chuck of aluminum with a round "brass" looking piece screwed into it about 2/3's the way down. In the center of this brass piece is an 8 mm hex slot for an allen wrench/spanner. Bob and I have gotten lazy and called this piece a "hex nut". Remove that piece and you'll see what we mean. it's about 18mm in diameter (3/4"). -------------------------- From: Baker Terry-P27739 Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 09:44:12 -0700 Subject: General Update & ABS Maintenance Hint I've had my bike torn down for over a month now--tearing down and re-greasing the front suspension pivot points, new tire, new chain and sprockets, valve adjustment, throttle body sync, change coolant, change brake fluids, etc. All has gone well with the exception of my plugged ABS pump. On that note, I've been working to contact the guy in England that rebuilds FJ1200 ABS pumps. Soon, I think I'll be diving in to the unit to see what I can screw up. I'll keep you all posted as to what develops and if my mechanic and I come up with a reasonable repair/rebuild, I will post all relevant information. In the meantime, I do have a suggestion for keeping your ABS pumps happy. So far, the main suggestion for ABS maintenance has been frequent brake fluid changes. This is good advice and I have some to add. I would recommend that every so often (about every oil change or so) that you run the ABS system self-test. In the tail section, above the ABS computer box, there are two test connectors. The one on the right side of the bike (if you're facing forward) is for the ABS system. It has 4 wires, one is black (gnd) and one is "sky blue". The other two (don't recall colors) are to hook up to a multi-meter to read out fault codes, but the dash light performs the same function and is adequate for me. With the ignition off, remove the test plug (it's a dummy connector--don't try to remove the individual black rubber plugs.) Then use a wire with alligator clips to jumper the black wire and the sky blue wire--this is what activates the diagnostic mode of the ABS system. With the key still OFF, stand on the right side of the bike, use your right hand to pull and hold the front brake lever, reach up with your foot and apply the rear brake lever and hold. Then, turn the key on while holding the brakes on with firm pressure. (Both brakes have to be applied for this to work.) The ABS system now runs through a self-test mode. First, after about 0.5 seconds, front brake pressure is dumped and is rapidly pumped back up in several small steps. A similar process follows on the rear brake. Repeat the test two or three times. This test is extremely simple to perform and requires no special tools. It does provide the following benefits: 1) It actually activates the pump, solenoids, orifices and passageways in the ABS unit, helping to keep them flushed and clear. 2) It verifies proper ABS system operation, rather than accidentally finding out with a large skid (both on the road and on your head!) 3) It saves tire wear and risk compared to the other methods of verifying proper operation (grabbing a lot of brake and hoping the system is working--especially on the front). I can't emphasize enough how easy this problem is to prevent. Keep your brake fluid fresh (I'd say no more than 1-2 years old, depending on climate & humidity) and frequently run this ABS self-test. --------------------- From: christopher "BANJO" caputo Date: Fri, 12 Mar 99 10:50:07 Pacific Daylight Time Subject: ABS - MATINENCE Hello, The Abs tips that Terry recommends are good however, having just had my pump replaced ,( under warranty, thank god) I would just like to say, that I ran the test that activates the pump, via jumper wire and although the pump activated during the test and the computer noted no faults, the abs failed to work when I road tested the bike.The best tip I can give is keep the brake fluid fresh and every time you ride, give the brake pedal a stab and activate the system under road conditions,then you will really know the system works.Great list,great bike-Take Care-Chris. --------------- From: RSRBOB@aol.com Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 18:59:09 EST Subject: Re: ABS - MAINTENANCE There is a difference in the test results for the pump, with the ABS in the diagnostic mode. When the ABS Hydraulic unit is functioning normally, it has a strong sharp feed back through the front brake lever and rear brake pedal. When the H.U. is not functioning properly, the feed back through the lever and pedal are very subtle. Try the test now that you have the new unit and see if you can not tell the difference. I have tested them both ways, and when it is working, it kicks you back rather sharply. This particular failure does not store a code because it is not an electrical faliure. Only electrical failures store codes. Things like no signal from the ABS sensors and the likes. ---------------------- If you have a current warranty on your bike, get the ABS pump replaced under it ASAP! My bike is not covered under warranty, and I have the problem as well. I removed my ABS pump the other day to ship to the UK for a rebuild. I was surprised to see the "gunk" build-up inside the holes that I did--it's kind of like old dried up honey--yuck! Another note for you guys on the list--some have had luck by bleeding the large 8mm allen head on the side of the pump housing. Guess what! There's another large 8mm allen head bold on the _other_ side of the pump also! I have no idea how you would bleed this while it's mounted on the bike--I think you'd have to remove the battery box. I'm sending a request for more detailed information with my rebuild. I'll be asking about preferred brake fluid, maintenance tips, etc. I will post any advice as to how to care for and feed these ABS pumps. So far, if you _don't_ have the problem, CHANGE YOUR FLUIDS FREQUENTLY and run the ABS self-diagnostic test about every oil change or so. Terry Baker -------------------- From: Baker Terry-P27739 Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 10:07:05 -0700 Subject: ABS Pump Rebuild and Other ABS Information Hey gang--I just heard back from Phil Hacker in the UK. He has "sorted the ABS unit and found internals seized." He charged me 100 pounds (about $162 US) plus whatever postage to get it back to the states. The unit cost me $50 US to ship to the UK using the USPS, 5-10 working day delivery, insured for $1800 (US). I would assume return postage to be about the same. I should be out a little under $300 for the whole process. I used my VISA card, so there were no hassles with exchange rates or bank fees. He plans to ship the unit back to me today, so I expect to see it sometime next week. I sent him a letter with the package asking the following questions. (Are you FAQ'ers listening??) Q: Are the GTS and FJ ABS pumps the same units? A: GTS and FJ ABS units are very similar, but not identical. Q: What kind of brake fluid do you recommend? A: DOT 5.1 or DOT 4 Q: How frequently should it be changed? A: Change fluid annually. Q: Does it help to occasionally engage the ABS or run it through its self-diagnostic procedure? (hooking up test harness, holding both brakes on, turning on the key, then waiting for ABS activation front then rear.) How frequently should this be done? A: Yes, test ABS unit with self-diagnostic procedure on every service. Also try getting the ABS to work on the road (easier on the rear.) Q: Is there anything special that needs to be done when re-installing the unit regarding bleeding air out of the system? Some on our email list have had some luck bleeding air out of the 8mm allen head bolt on the sides of the housing. Is this a problem or is it recommended? A: Re-fit as with any normal hydraulic system. >>I may ask him for more clarification about the 8mm allen bolts.<< Q: What other suggestions do you have about keeping the ABS system in top condition? (ALL information you can provide is VERY useful.) A: Change fluid annually or at service intervals. He also said in his reply that "anyone is welcome to have their ABS units re-conditioned so please feel free to pass my details on to anyone with FJ/GTS ABS." Here are the details: Phil Hacker (FUDGE Motorcycles) Ivy Cottage Heathend, Cromhall Wotton-Under-Edge Glos, GL12 8AR United Kingdom Tel. 01454 299325 Fax. 01454 299326 For whatever it's worth, the reasons that I chose to use his services, rather than chance it on my own are: 1) He has experience working on the units, 2) He says he screwed up the first one he tried, 3) He has spare parts from several donor units, 4) his prices were reasonable, and 5) I didn't feel like risking $1800 if I did screw it up. Keep in mind, at this point, that it will be another 2 weeks or so before my bike is back on the road and I can confirm that the unit is back to normal, but I feel confident that it will. I and many others on the list have said it before and I'll throw it in one more time--KEEP YOUR BRAKE FLUID FRESH!! An ounce of prevention here is worth a hundred pounds (UK) of cure!! (Does that qualify me for membership in the SA club?) Terry Baker ---------- From: Baker Terry-P27739 Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 10:02:35 -0700 Subject: More ABS Hydraulic Unit Woes (long but relevant!) Yup--here I go again on GTS ABS systems. I have posted information recently about Phil Hacker, the guy in England that "rebuilds" ABS pumps for a fraction of the cost of a new unit. At this point, I will add some more relevant information about his services. I re-mounted the unit after it was returned and bled the system. Unfortunately, something was wrong. I was feeling pulsing in the lever during off-throttle deceleration--not even applying the brakes!! As an electrical engineer, I studied the wiring diagrams and evaluated the ECU system and found it to be operating correctly. Aw shit--something's wrong with the HU. I then proceeded to study the hell out of the ABS block diagrams in the shop manual, swallowed hard, and tore into my newly "rebuilt" ABS unit. I can now say that I have a complete, fundamental understanding of how the thing works and goes about its business. What had happened was Phil had forgot to install a spring and steel ball that acts as a "check valve" underneath the 8mm allen head screw for the front brake circuit. Under these 8mm allen heads is the pump mechanism that returns brake fluid to the master cylinder after ABS activation. This mistake was the equivalent of "forgetting" to install an intake valve when rebuilding an engine--no catastrophic damage will happen, but it sure won't work right. On further disassembly, there were obvious signs that many other parts had never been removed or cleaned. I telephoned Mr. Hacker (appropriate name, BTW) and he agreed to send me, free of charge, a complete mechanism that goes in behind the 8mm allen bolt. As far as I'm concerned, I'll only contact him again if I ever need spare parts--I'll rebuild my own damn pump, thank you very much. This kind of carelessness is unacceptable. Phew! I'm wound up! At any rate, I took several close-up pictures of the disassembly as I went through it. General complexity is similar to a smog-equipped carburetor--several small, accurately machined parts and passageways that all have a function to perform, but the unit IS serviceable. I can prepare a write-up to go along with the photos on how all of this works in much more detail than is available in the shop manual. My question for y'all is if anyone wants to put up some web space, I'll provide the information to share with the group. I do have another piece of advice: (Shawn P.--pay attention!) For those that "service" their brake systems by loosening the 8mm allen on the side of the HU to bleed out their systems--STOP IT! Behind the plug is a spring and a steel ball that is almost impossible to reassemble properly with the pump mounted to the bike. These parts should be put together with the side of the pump facing up, not to the side as it is mounted on the bike. (requires removal of the HU) I've already screwed this up! I found an easier and much less risky way to do this. Bleed the system as best you can normally and then run the ABS self-test a couple of times. This circulates fluid to areas of the HU that may have air trapped. After doing this, you should be able to get some more air out of the system. I've mounted and bled my system about 3 times now and still have one to go. I LOVE SPEEDBLEEDERS! OK--I'll wrap this up. I was ASTONISHED at the corrosion found inside the working bits of the ABS unit (even after a supposed "rebuild"). YES--water DOES get into the system!!! KEEP YOUR BRAKE FLUID FRESH!! If you've got problems, contact me and save yourself the pain of going across the pond, if you know what I mean. Terry Baker ------------------------- Putting ABS in test mode: there's a test connector above the tool kit. Remove the plug and jumper the two top wires near the connector key. Black wire to sky blue/black trace wire. Stand on the right side of the bike, step firmly on the rear brake, ---------------- From: "Hawkins, Kevin L, SITS" To: gts-1000@elektro.cmhnet.org Subject: RE: Testing Front ABS ?? Message-ID: <335651BAA948D21188B500E02909A69B02F6B962@gab200po09.ems.att.com> The best way to test the ABS HU is to run the HU diagnostics. 1. Remove the seat and find the diagnostic plug hidden above where the tool pouch is secured in the tail of the bike. There are two diagnostic plugs, get the one just above the tool pouch. 2. There is a locking tab securing the protective insert. Lift the locking tab up with your finger and gently pull the dummy plug out with a pair of pliers. 3. You want to short out the two conductors adjacent(closest) to the locking tab. 4. Pull in the front brake lever firmly and push down on the rear brake. 5. While holding both brakes, turn the ignition key to the ON position. 6. You will first feel the front brake lever push(kind of a ratchet sound) out against your grip, then fall back to where it was. Next the rear brake pedal will ratchet up against your foot then fall back to where it was. The important part is the initial ratcheting push out against your foot or hand pressure. Even if you hold the levers firmly, the HU pump should be able to push out against you! Don't grip the lever with all your might or stand with your full body weight on the rear lever, but DO apply firm braking pressure. ------------------ From: Baker Terry-P27739 To: "'GTS Owners Group'" Subject: ABS FACTS AND FICTION Message-ID: <6D3B40A2556FD2118B0D0008C7BA848C0C6D73@az25exm01.geg.mot.com> I can't watch the latest ABS thread go by without adding my .02 worth. FACT: The nature of the ABS failure is a combination of old brake fluid turning to gunk, combined with corrosion of steel parts inside the HU. FACT: The ONLY way to PREVENT this problem is frequent fluid changes (annually), combined with frequent activation of the ABS self-test (every oil-change). Also, activating the system on the road helps keep the system functioning and you will be less likely to dump in your shorts if it does activate in a panic stop. FACT: I personally called Yamaha customer service raising the issues being discussed in the current thread--it IS a safety concern. Basically, she told me that she knew that the unit was not serviceable (according to Yamaha--read on) and that I would have to replace it. I got the impression that this was not the first time they had heard of ABS complaints. FACT: The ABS unit IS serviceable--I have done it myself after a lot of pain/suffering trying to find alternatives. It is a tear-down, clean-up, re-assemble procedure about the level of a complex carburetor. Spare parts are only available from Phil Hacker in England. I know I have offered to write-up my experiences, with pictures, but spare time has been at an extreme minimum lately. I will try to add priority to getting this done so that you all will at least have some information. COMMENTARY: I am more than willing to add my name to the list of disgruntled ABS owners and would be interested in participating in any letter/information sent to Yamaha. Hell--I'd even be willing to draft a letter since I've seen first-hand what the nature of the failure is. Ultimately, the most I could ever see coming out of this may be a service bulletin to Yamaha dealerships advising them to change brake fluids annually. Unless someone gets killed and sues, I don't see Yamaha replacing everyone's ABS units--but that's my opinion. To my understanding, the FJ system has had similar problems and maybe we could solicit participation from that group as well. John Laurenson--do you feel like starting this flame war on the FJ list?? Unfortunately, I am at work now and I need to get back to it--I could go on for hours on this topic. Reactions/comments/etc. are desired. Terry Baker --------------------- From: RangerJay@aol.com To: gts-1000@elektro.cmhnet.org Subject: Re: Testing Front ABS ?? Message-ID: <6d248f27.24eae35c@aol.com> Other may have a better method, but when I want to check my ABS, I usually find a level dirt surface and try back then front brake at under 20 mph. As soon as I feel either a lock-up or the pulsing, I'm ready to release and get rolling again. I've found even if the front locks up briefly, there's time to recover if you're expecting it, on level ground, sitting straight up and not going too fast. I like this idea better than the electrical test because it provides instant feedback when you want it most, when you're riding. It's good to know what activating ABS feels like. In fact, once you are confident it's working-and that lack of confidence is the biggest negative of the GTS system-it's worthwhile trying it out on various surfaces at various speeds. (This is equally important in cars. Most drivers react to ABS pulsing by taking their foot off the brakes, completing negating its effectiveness. That's why automakers are now removing the pulsing from most systems, which I think is foolish. That's what tells you when you're approaching lock-up and gives you important information about the road surface. The real answer, as ALWAYS, is better training. But I digress....) Jay, leaving the soapbox now. ------------------ To: weaver@arches.uga.edu Cc: weaver@arches.uga.edu Subject: Error Condition Re: Re: ABS FACTS AND FICTION Rejected message: sent to gts-1000@elektro.cmhnet.org by BERGMAN@MERCTECH.COM follows. Reason for rejection: sender not subscribed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In your message dated: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 11:50:20 EDT, your pithy ruminations on were: => I can't watch the latest ABS thread go by without adding my .02 worth. => => FACT: The nature of the ABS failure is a combination of old brake fluid => turning to gunk, combined with corrosion of steel parts inside the HU. Sorry, I'd have to say that the breakdown of the ABS fluid (and the resulting corrosion) is a symptom of the real problem. There's air (and water vapor) getting into the brake system, particularly the rear brakes from _somewhere_. The cure is to prevent the entry of air. The methods for the entry of air that I know of are: through the brake lines themselves through seals through the master cylinder In addition to flushing the brake fluid, most manufacturers recommend changing the brake hoses periodically (I don't have my GTS manual handy, so I don't know if that's a Yamaha service item, or the frequency), usually every 3+ years. Does anyone have steel-wrapped teflon brake hoses on their bike? Do you have ABS problems? Has anyone replaced the crush washers and seals on the ABS system? I don't suspect the hoses--I suspect something in the design of the rear brake. I've noticed that strong stops, particularly rear ABS activation, leave the rear brake feeling spongy, most likely because air has gotten into the system. => => FACT: The ONLY way to PREVENT this problem is frequent fluid changes No. frequent fluid changes alleviates the _symptom_ of contaminated fluid, it doesn't prevent the problem of the fluid getting contaminated. => (annually), combined with frequent activation of the ABS self-test (every => oil-change). Also, activating the system on the road helps keep the system => functioning and you will be less likely to dump in your shorts if it does => activate in a panic stop. I believe that frequent ABS activation actually exacerbates the problem, because it introduces more air into the system, creating a negative feedback loop. => => FACT: I personally called Yamaha customer service raising the issues being => discussed in the current thread--it IS a safety concern. Basically, she => told me that she knew that the unit was not serviceable (according to => Yamaha--read on) and that I would have to replace it. I got the impression => that this was not the first time they had heard of ABS complaints. Officially it's not serviceable, and you probably won't get Yamaha to change their minds. I'd suspect that the ABS pump was produced by another vendor, and bought as a sealed unit by Yamaha. => => FACT: The ABS unit IS serviceable--I have done it myself after a lot of => pain/suffering trying to find alternatives. It is a tear-down, clean-up, => re-assemble procedure about the level of a complex carburetor. Spare parts => are only available from Phil Hacker in England. I know I have offered to => write-up my experiences, with pictures, but spare time has been at an => extreme minimum lately. I will try to add priority to getting this done so => that you all will at least have some information. I think that's our best avenue for continued operation--self service. Let's face it, a lawsuit won't work (not enough of us, anecdotal evidence only, too much $$ for use to pursue a class action suit, and we're an _international_ group--suing in the US won't help any GTS owner anywhere else!). We _might_ be able to get someone at Yamaha to semi-officially help out (maybe finding out production details of the ABS pump is a good idea), but I can't imagine anyone admitting there's a safety problem. => => COMMENTARY: I am more than willing to add my name to the list of => disgruntled ABS owners and would be interested in participating in any => letter/information sent to Yamaha. Hell--I'd even be willing to draft a => letter since I've seen first-hand what the nature of the failure is. => Ultimately, the most I could ever see coming out of this may be a service => bulletin to Yamaha dealerships advising them to change brake fluids => annually. Unless someone gets killed and sues, I don't see Yamaha replacing => everyone's ABS units--but that's my opinion. To my understanding, the FJ => system has had similar problems and maybe we could solicit participation => from that group as well. John Laurenson--do you feel like starting this => flame war on the FJ list?? => => Unfortunately, I am at work now and I need to get back to it--I could go on => for hours on this topic. => => Reactions/comments/etc. are desired. => => Terry Baker ------------------- From: Baker Terry-P27739 To: "'GTS Owners Group'" Subject: More ABS Tips Message-ID: <6D3B40A2556FD2118B0D0008C7BA848C0C6D75@az25exm01.geg.mot.com> I have seen a few comments that need addressing. These are based on my personal experience having removed and installed my HU three times. Take the FACT as FWIW. ;-) When bleeding/flushing/installing fresh/etc., you do not need any special flusher tools that only a dealer would have. I personally use speedbleeders to make the job easier and faster, but a Mityvac or the old-fashioned way will work--your choice. One thing that is critical, however, is that you run the ABS system through the self-diagnostic procedure as part of this maintenance. The fluid only runs through part of the HU under normal operation--fluid will stagnate in areas (near the spool and solenoid valves) if the process is not activated. I recommend doing it several (3-4 times) during bleeding. I also discovered this to be necessary when installing the HU and trying to bleed air out of the system. I ran almost a quart of brake fluid through--no air bubbles at all coming from the bleeder nipple, but still a mushy feel at the lever. I then thought to run the self-diagnostic to see what was happening and then the lever was even softer after that. (????) Then, I bled a little more and a whole bunch of "foam" and bubbles came out of the nipple. Air had been trapped in the "dormant" part of the HU. I ran the self-diagnostic a few more times, bled until the air stopped, and now the lever is very firm and I've had no problems since. Another interesting tidbit--this will make more sense after I post the rebuild write-up. When Phil Hacker worked on my unit, he left out a spring and steel ball that makes a check valve in the return pump. When I first installed the unit, it was acting funny in that I was getting pulsing in the lever/foot pedal just on engine deceleration--not even hitting the brakes!! After figuring this thing out, it made sense why--I won't try to explain it here--too much required. One thing I did learn, however, is that the electric motor fires up long before the ABS is needed. Almost every time you sharply close the throttle and coast against the engine, the electric return pump starts running. The missing check valve is the reason I could feel the return pump pulsing at the levers. I guess it's the computer doing a "hey--I just sensed a sharp deceleration--this bonehead is probably going to lock it up--I'd better start running the return pump just in case I have to dump pressure" kind of a thing. You never know it's happening because you can't hear it while riding. It's the same thing Kevin mentioned about using the kill switch and the starter button. FWIW. Terry Baker ---------------------- Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:19:59 -0500 From: "Hawkins, Kevin L, SITS" To: gts-1000@elektro.cmhnet.org Cc: rmcbrien@yahoo.com Subject: RE: ABS Message-ID: Those who are intolerant of reposting old messages, delete now. I've posted this before, but Robert probably wasn't on the list then. The best way to test the ABS HU is to run the HU diagnostics. 1. Remove the seat and find the diagnostic plug hidden above where the tool pouch is secured in the tail of the bike. There are two diagnostic plugs, get the one just above the tool pouch. 2. There is a locking tab securing the protective insert. Lift the locking tab up with your finger and gently pull the dummy plug out with a pair of pliers. 3. You want to short out the two conductors adjacent(closest) to the locking tab. 4. Pull in the front brake lever firmly and push down on the rear brake. 5. While holding both brakes, turn the ignition key to the ON position. 6. You will first feel the front brake lever push(kind of a ratchet sound) out against your grip, then fall back to where it was. Next the rear brake pedal will ratchet up against your foot then fall back to where it was. The important part is the initial ratcheting push out against your foot or hand pressure. Even if you hold the levers firmly, the HU pump should be able to push out against you! Don't grip the lever with all your might or stand with your full body weight on the rear lever, but DO apply firm braking pressure. Any questions? Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC AMA #609423 // klhawkins@att.com http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000